Down Highway 85, at the Summit Steakhouse, Teresa Alvarado’s roughly 50 guests had swamped the bar area and practically cleaned out steam trays of what looked like enchiladas.

Alvarado herself stood at the center of a crowd of people in the middle of the dimly lit room. “It’s going really good,” said Alvarado, as someone handed her a seltzer water. “We’ve done our best.”

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