Downtown Needs More Local Restaurants

By Stett Holbrook

Walking down South First Street in San Jose recently, I was thoroughly unsurprised to see that Asqew Grill called it quits last month. The 200 S. First St. location is something of a doomed corner. Zyng Noodles also occupied that space and failed as well. I don’t know the details of why Asqew left, but I wonder if part of the reason was that the chain restaurant simply didn’t resonate with downtown diners.

Granted, with only five locations now (Asqew had another location on Coleman Avenue that closed, too) it’s not a megachain like McDonald’s, and it is based in the Bay Area, but it’s still a chain to me—formulaic and uninspired. Just like Zyng and just like the chain restaurant that will probably replace it.

Could downtown San Jose be tiring of chain eateries? I know I have.

I wonder how a locally owned, independent restaurant would fare there. Casa Castillo’s, which held the spot for almost 20 years before the city sold the Twohy building to developers who then booted the business out, did considerably better than the bland chains that followed.

One of the worst developments in downtown restaurants was the closure of La Taqueria earlier this year. The locally owned, scrupulously fresh Mexican restaurant was a downtown favorite. But what’s really hard to take is the fact that Carl’s Jr. is taking its place. Talk about adding insult to injury.

In my perfect world, there would be no more chain restaurants in downtown San Jose. The ones already here could stay, but that’s it. Restaurants with, say, more than seven locations would be banned. In downtown’s decades-long quest to develop some kind of critical mass as a vibrant retail/housing/cultural center, restaurants must play a central role. If downtown is to shed its image of a boring sea of blandness, it must cultivate and celebrate its diverse culinary flavors, flavors that make San Jose what it is.

Chain restaurants like P.F. Chang’s, Morton’s Steakhouse, Subway sandwiches, Johnny Rockets, McCormick and Schmick’s and Starbucks serve perfectly fine food and drink, but to me their presence downtown does nothing to create the kind of vibrancy and distinctiveness that downtown so desperately needs.

But given the state of the economy and downtown’s status as a retail center, I realize that the world is far from perfect. Scott Knies, executive director of the San Jose Downtown Association, told me that his organization has discussed where it would be best to locate certain retail businesses, but the group has not pursued limits on chain business, particularly restaurants.

Knies says that downtown’s restaurants are “the one area of retail that’s working in downtown San Jose.” He says in effect that putting limits on chain restaurants would be killing the goose that lays golden egg, even if those eggs sometimes come from the Golden Arches. Knies believes downtown ultimately benefits from a mix of restaurants—national and regional chains as well as locally owned businesses—because it keeps the retail scene alive and possibly opens the door to other business who might not otherwise locate here.

“It’s pretty early in our evolution to be contemplating [a limitation on chains] now,” he says. “We’re just beginning our evolution into a retail center.”

I guess he has a point. Downtown has to walk before it can run. Or, to put it more cynically, beggars can’t be choosers.  But chain restaurants create a Catch-22. For a city that is often criticized for its soulless corporate blandness, each new chain restaurant perpetuates that image. I suppose a chain restaurant is better than an empty, trash-blown storefront, but only time will tell whether these restaurants one day contribute to a more indigenous food scene.

I’m encouraged by the plans for the San Jose Public Market around San Pedro Square. Leaving aside questions about private-public funding, the market is just the kind of homegrown spark downtown needs for a more lively restaurant and shopping scene—provided local businesses and not soul-sucking chains are given priority.

Maybe when downtown’s retail base matures, attitudes toward chains will change. San Francisco has a policy against chain restaurants. So do cities diverse as Arcata and St. Paul, Minn. I realize a ban on chains won’t fly in San Jose, but how about a quota? Or better yet, what if the city offered incentives for independently owned, unique restaurants? Would the city then be open to criticism that it favors one kind of business over another? Probably. But so what? 

I think that the city could do a lot to establish the conditions where a more vital and unique food scene could flourish by making it clear that it prefers local flavors instead of a generic corporate food culture.

28 Comments

  1. I fail to understand the leftist hatred for chain restaurants. Never mind that they provide tax revenue and jobs. As Holbrook points out, “San Francisco has a policy against chain restaurants. So do cities diverse as Arcata and St. Paul, Minn.”

    I resent politicians dictating where I can and can’t eat. If a chain restaurant sucks, then nobody will eat there and it will close. If it provides a good experience, than it is an asset that contributes to the tax base and should stay. Let the restaurants come, chain and independent, and may the best survive.

  2. A restaurant needs customers to survive.  Who in their right mind wants to go to downtown San Jose and be assaulted by airplane noise as they eat?  Only a fool would like that atmosphere.

  3. The first I’d ever even heard of Asqew’s was when we stumbled into one in San Francisco. Looked to me like it stays plenty busy. Maybe all the other diners there were unaware that it’s a chain so they didn’t realize they weren’t supposed to like it.

    No. If any city’s people are predisposed toward conformity and chains, it’s San Jose.
    This futile effort to make San Jose into something it isn’t is really getting annoying.

  4. “assaulted by airplane noise as they eat?”

    huh? I have lived downtown for 7 years (3rd and San Fernando) and the airplane noise has is one of the last things I would ever think complain about. I guess I am am fool, but then again me thinks that “Move it Hollister” lives in a glass house…..

    Oh and for the most part the restaurants that have failed downtown have generally failed not because of some made up “chain vs non-chain” argument but rather because the food was not that good and the service was poor…. I am sure there are a few exceptions.

  5. John Galt said, “This futile effort to make San Jose into something it isn’t is really getting annoying.”

    Amen to that! If the City stopped making it so difficult to get a business going, that would help. And parking in DT, hideous!

    Having said that, I’m really looking forward to McEnery’s new market. I think it will be an awesome place that actually fits in with our City. I wish him the best, and plan to go there as soon as it opens! Any idea when that will be Editor?

  6. So, now not wanting chain restaurants is seen as some leftist conspiracy. Some you guys are just plain comical. Leftist? Then I guess all planning and zoning codes are leftist as well since they proscribe what can and can’t be built, opened, or otherwise established in the city?
    This site just gets more laughable every day. If you like chains—eat at them since there is no shortage. If you don’t like them, eat elsewhere since you have lots of options. But, leftist? Gimme a break.

  7. Not liking chains is not a leftist conspiracy. It’s personal preference, which is fine.

    What’s not fine is left wing politicians in places like Ess-Eff passing laws against chains because they are somehow evil.

  8. Stett

    You are right. The loss of La Taqueria on First Street is a tragedy. They made the best burrito in the city, and for a bargain price. I can’t understand it as the place was always busy. Were they forced out I wonder?

  9. The opinion in this article represents the worst in our society.  Everywhere you turn these days certain people are portrayed as evil and dangerous…energy companies, drug companies, banks, retail chains, fast food restaurants, etc.

    What’s amazing is that these so-called villains have never forced anyone to work for their companies, buy their products or use their services.  In fact, these are the people whose minds and work ethic have made everyone’s life easier, cheaper and better in some manner.  They even accomplish this despite the thousands of leeches who constantly throw obstacles in their way.  These people are the heart and soul of our society, and propel us forward.

    Then there’s the flipside, the leech.  These people view the government as a tool to mandate their personal preferences, limit their competition, and control everyone else under the guise of compassion, or some obscure societal benefit (in this case they didn’t even use that as an excuse).  They are without question the most dangerous people in the world.  They leech of the private transactions of other people and then turn around and actively work to destroy them.  These people need to be exposed for what they are.

  10. Read up before firing shots…

    Asqew took out their San Jose Market Center location as well as the 1st/Paseo eatery.  The downtown core-condition shouldn’t be fingered (although that graffiti photo makes for a good eye-zinger, nicely done).  I suspect it’s more to do with the state of national sentiment and economy rather than a dilapidated, airplane-noise-infested downtown (seriously, now…).

    Although I deeply miss La Taqueria, the building- and business-owner has a shop in SF.  He was quoted in a “fond farewell article” saying this location was successful but he chose to close it to focus on his San Francisco store – not because he was forced out by a left-, right-, or hot-wing conspiracy.

    I can just picture the income that will come to him from the Carl’s Jr. rent.  I bet the green tastes better than those $6 double Western bacon cheeseburgers…  Good decision by him, I say!

  11. There are a few chains that I would eat at, but in general they use big advertising budgets to convince people that the food is better than it actually is. However, some people don’t seem to care what their food tastes like or how much they pay for it, as shown by the fact that over-priced fake-Mexican chains survive in our city which is crammed full of excellent locally owned taquerias (some of them little chains).

    You can see why San Francisco would try to limit chains because it has a large tourist industry. You’re not going to attract people from out of town if when you get there everything looks just the same as it does back home in Indianapolis.

    If downtown is full of chains then the only reason to eat there is because you happen to be there for some other reason. Castro Street in Mountain View attracts people from elsewhere as a dining destination because the restaurants there show some individuality.

    I can remember when there was a lot more variety of restaurants in downtown SJ, but it seems that the policy is to force out locally owned businesses and replace them with chains. All well and good if the goal is for people to stay in their own neighborhoods instead of going downtown.

  12. Askew failed because it was poorly managed and that translated into a lousy dining experience. When you try a restaurant multiple times and they run out of iced tea each time, or you order something and they tell you they’ve run out of that item, it’s a bad sign. After that happened on multiple visits, we took bets how long they would survive. Askew has a good food concept at a price point attractive to families. Their problem was executing the concept as restaurant professionals. In this specific case, I don’t see any merit in attempting to tie their failure to larger issues of the attractiveness of downtown. Restaurants come and go. Sonoma Chicken Coop, which, to me, has a similar target customer base, appears to do well. Every time I’m at SCC it is packed. When the right restaurant comes along it will do fine at the First and Paseo De San Antonio location. That said – Casa Castillo should have never been forced out and they would probably be doing better than ever if they were still at their original location.

  13. #1,

    I think that many would agree with you – the RDA is pretty much the kiss of death if one is looking for anything beyond same-o-same-o mediocrity. 

    I continue to hope that RDAs statewide will be dissolved and that high-jacked tax increment monies will be returned to schools and other basic infrastructure needs.

    Given its bleak financial condition for as far ahead as one can see, perhaps our now near-bankrupt State will do just that.

  14. 15 – I’m shocked. You mean keeping chains out of SF is not because of the leftist politicians there? You mean it’s because it’s good planning to make a city unique and not like every other place in the country? Wow, are you going to disappoint those on this site who see everything they disagree with as a leftist plot. Who’d of thought good planning had anything to with it—unless of course the planners are all leftists.

  15. I think the kind of restaurants we need are the ones where people want to go into and spend money. How’s that for a business plan?

    I’m like you, in that I’ll take Scott’s (local chain?) before McCormick and Schmidt’s, and won’t touch PF Chang with a 10-foot pole. But not enough to alter the mix of businesses or tamper with the dollar vote.

  16. Leave it to the RDA, They have been doing a fine job for the last 20 years. Santana Row is a good example of their work.
                    Light

  17. If you want to know why restaurants are having trouble making it in downtown San Jose, all you need to do is to look at the last photo in the article, where Asqew put up the “we’re outahere!” notice – and a tagger came along and let everyone know that he, too, has seen the sign and decided to add to it.

    A picture truly is worth a thousand words.

    By the way – what is a “chain” restaurant?  Would Hobee’s (with nine locations) be hung with that sort of label?  Is there a cut-off of how many locations of a restaurant that one can own in order to have the “privilege” of locating in downtown SJ?  Should UFood Grill reconsider locating in San Jose because it is publicly traded and is traded on the NYSE, even though it has just as many locations as does Hobee’s?  Would Togo’s, which got its start at 7th and William, now be forbidden from expanding anywhere in downtown because they are now corporatized within an inch of their collective life?

    Any restaurant that thinks that it can make it in downtown should have the opportunity to do so.  If all they sell is plasticized corporate crud (*cough*PFChangs*cough*), then eventually they will die.  If they sell quality food at a good price, then they will stand the test of time – example #1 of that being Original Joe’s.

    Let ‘em come, let ‘em try.  If they fail, let ‘em die.  The wheel keeps turning, and so do our stomachs.

    And when in doubt, there’s always Jack at 4th and San Carlos.

  18. (Sorry to use this blog as a way to publicize and event, but being that the discussion has revolved around local establishments and the need for patrons to support them, I though this might be an ok addition. I’ll leave it to SJI to decide if they want to post it).

    DT San Jose is a great place to hang out with friends and family. There is a great diversity of places to eat, drink coffee and just hang out, but sometimes people just don’t know about them.

    This is why the San Jose Downtown Residents Association periodically puts on Evening Socials as a way to introduce residents to destinations across DT. Already we have visited:

    -A Perfect Finish Wine Bar
    -Chic Chetue (it’s not just a clothing store,  in the back it serves delicious crepes
    -Flames Coffee Shop
    -Caffe Trieste

    If you would like to learn more about another great DT destination, please plan on joining us for our next social:

    When: Thursday, May 28th
    Time: 7:00 pm – 8:30 pm
    Where: San Pedro Square Bistro and Wine Bar

    You will receive 20% off menu prices. Hope you can make it and show your support for DT establishments, particularly given these harsh economic times.

  19. “The 200 S. First St. location is something of a doomed corner.”

    Casa Castillo’s,[why do people insist on making something possessive with an apostrophe that’s not in the name; e.g. “Eulipia’s} which held the spot for almost 20 years before the city sold the Twohy building to developers who then booted the business out, did considerably better than the bland chains that followed.

    The corner was just fine and Marcelino was doing just fine…until the city & RDA moved in & built the ridiculous Retail Pavilion, threw Marcelino out, and started importing bland regional and national chains, with subsidies, all while leaving those who lived through the construction of The Little Trolley To Nowhere high and dry.  Almost 30 years later, it still ain’t workin’.

    Latest experiment in wasting public funds—trying to revive the shrinking San Pedro Square (several closed venues) by making it bigger????

  20. I have to disagree with #4.  It’s mediocrity , or worse, that sells.  How else does one explain The Spaghetti Factory (my god, to call that place an Italian restaurant is an insult to all Italian restaurants), P.F. Chang’s, McCormick & Schmicks, Bella Mia?

  21. I just walked by La Taqueria on the way to Billy Berk’s for lunch.  The inside has been gutted, revealing a lot of dry rot in wooden beams.  There is at least one unreinforced masonry wall that will probably have to be dealt with.  Looks like a lot of $$ to end up with a tiny Carl’s Jr.

  22. I’m not so sure we need more restaurants.  I walked down first from San Salvador to the SJ ICA for a function at 6:00 p.m. yesterday.  Every restaurant was closed. Obviously due to lack of customers.

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